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Egg: A Culinary Exploration of the World's Most Versatile Ingredient, by Michael Ruhlman
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In this innovative cookbook, James Beard award-winning author Michael Ruhlman explains why the egg is the key to the craft of cooking.
For culinary visionary Michael Ruhlman, the question is not whether the chicken or the egg came first, it's how anything could be accomplished in the kitchen without the magic of the common egg. He starts with perfect poached and scrambled eggs and builds up to brioche and Italian meringue. Along the way readers learn to make their own mayonnaise, pasta, custards, quiches, cakes, and other preparations that rely fundamentally on the hidden powers of the egg.
A unique framework for the book is provided in Ruhlman's egg flowchart, which starts with the whole egg at the top and branches out to describe its many uses and preparations -- boiled, pressure-cooked, poached, fried, coddled, separated, worked into batters and doughs, and more. A removable illustrated flowchart is included with the book.
Nearly 100 recipes are grouped by technique and range from simple (Egg Salad with Tarragon and Chives) to sophisticated (nougat). Dozens of step-by-step photographs guide the home cook through this remarkable culinary journey.
- Sales Rank: #83781 in Books
- Brand: Ruhlman, Michael/ Ruhlman, Donna Turner (PHT)
- Published on: 2014-04-08
- Released on: 2014-04-08
- Original language: English
- Number of items: 1
- Dimensions: 10.38" h x 1.13" w x 8.25" l, .0 pounds
- Binding: Hardcover
- 256 pages
From Booklist
*Starred Review* If there is a single indispensable ingredient in cooking, it has to be the egg. It binds together the humble meatloaf, gives dramatic height to an elegant soufflé, renders a hollandaise sauce silky on the tongue, and clarifies a cloudy broth. It appears at every daily meal, from breakfast omelet to pasta lunch to dinner shrimp tempura, and in every meal course, from appetizer deviled egg through entrée chicken fricassee to floating-island dessert. Ruhlman deftly analyzes the egg’s culinary role, deconstructing it into white and yolk and cooking it by itself as, say, a poached egg or combining it with seafood in a sophisticated roulade. Sharp photographs by the author’s wife illustrate techniques and demystify such complexities as braiding a loaf of challah, and they guide the cook to successful culinary results almost as well as if Ruhlman himself were standing at elbow. A must-purchase for cookbook collections, this book invites the reader to understand as much as to execute. --Mark Knoblauch
Review
"As useful as it is elegant, as comforting as it is revelatory, Egg elevates its humble subject to well-deserved heights, providing detailed (and delicious) instructions along the way."―Dan Barber, executive chef and co-owner of Blue Hill and Blue Hill at Stone Barns
"We're obsessed with Michael Ruhlman's new cookbook Egg, and know that you're going to love it as much as we do."―Alessandra Bulow, Epicurious
"The subtitle is no exaggeration, and Ruhlman, with great panache, proves it on page after page of his master class...You'll never see eggs in the same way again."―William Grimes, The New York Times Book Review
"Home cooks and professionals will embrace this useful resource, which includes a pull-out flow chart measuring over four feet long."―Publisher's Weekly (starred review)
"The chart alone is genius."―Michael Symon, chef, author, and co-host of The Chew
"I am, notoriously, an egg slut. This book has everything you need to know about the ingredient that gives in so many ways. And keeps on giving."―Anthony Bourdain, author, television host, producer
About the Author
Michael Ruhlman started writing about the lives of chefs 20 years ago, and he soon found an interest in becoming a chef himself. After his success with the narrative books The Making of a Chef, The Soul of a Chef and The Reach of a Chef, he has more recently taken his own skills in cooking to write innovative and successful food reference books including Ratio, The Elements of Cooking, and Charcuterie. Ruhlman has also appeared on food television numerous times, notably as a judge on Iron Chef and as a featured guest on Anthony Bourdain's No Reservations. He lives in Cleveland, Ohio with his wife, photographer Donna Turner Ruhlman.
Most helpful customer reviews
47 of 54 people found the following review helpful.
Great Cookbook, But Not My Favorite Ruhlman Cookbook.
By E. Smith
I love Ruhlman's Twenty. Naturally, when I saw that he had a new cookbook being released, I pre-ordered it months in advance. Ruhlman and I, a novice home-cook, think alike: eggs are cheap and easy to cook. Naturally, I was very excited to receive Egg.
I appreciate the finer cooking points on how to poach an egg properly and reminding me to coddle my eggs. However, I don't consider coddled eggs with truffle butter a true recipe. I tried the new technique for scrambled eggs (in a water bath). The technique is great and I would recommend it for brunch or dieters. The cakes look great (I haven't had a chance to make one yet, but I look forward to it). The quiche looks like my favorite quiche from Jane in San Francisco. I can't wait to make the marshmallows (Jane adds a marshmallow to their mochas).
Ruhlman is a great author. I really appreciate all the tips and tricks he adds to his cookbooks, including Egg. All in all, I took off one star because I like pictures. Egg is lacking pictures. I love all of Ruhlman's Twenty pictures.
Would I buy Egg again? Yes. Would I buy Egg for a friend? Yes. Do I enjoy cooking from Egg? Yes. However, Ruhlman's Twenty is still my favorite cookbook.
Update 3/15: The chocolate sponge cake recipe is my go-to recipe for all chocolate sponge cakes. When I make the sponge cake, I receive many compliments on the sponge cake.
30 of 35 people found the following review helpful.
Eggcellent!
By Sondra McClendon
As a true culinary visionary, Michael Ruhlman asks of the kitchen staple the egg, "What can't it do?!"
Recipes in Egg include Italian meringue, quiche, custards, and even condiments like mayonnaise. One of the most intriguing facets of Ruhlman's book is his flowchat that depicts the many uses and ways of preparing eggs. This helpful sheet is removable (!) for easy pinning on the fridge. Since I am trying to incorporate more of this healthy and affordable protein into my weekly menu, this is a huge plus.
Other reasons I recommend this book...
- Nearly 100 recipes organized into easy groupings
- Step-by-step photographs guide you along the way
- Everything you wanted to know about buying eggs
- Recipes that put a new spin on traditional favorites, for as he says, "there is nothing that isn't improved when you put a well-cooked egg on top of it"
On a final note - its good to get the good word from an expert like Ruhlman! He has studied cooking for over 20 years and written many successful cookbooks like The Making of a Chef as well as a great non-food related expose Wooden Boats. While it may not be the most diverse book about eggs on the market or as specific as The Art of Cooking Omelettes, Ruhlman's new book about "this really fabulous, versatile ingredient" is defintely helpful for those who want to crack into eggs in a new way.
20 of 24 people found the following review helpful.
Almost an amazing cookbook
By DarthClem
Michael Ruhlman is a combination of who we are and who we want to be. He's a down to earth guy with a passion for cooking (who most of us are) who has become an almost unparalleled master at the culinary arts (who most of us want to be). I consider "Ruhlman's Twenty" to be one of the finest books written for an aspiring home chef, and "Egg" comes very close to being Twenty's equal.
In "Egg", Ruhlman takes the simple egg and demonstrates why it truly is not only "the most versatile ingredient", but also one of the most magnificent. Through the multitude of recipes, he shows how the egg can play both the lead role or the supporting character in every dish from breakfast to dessert.
Big credit must also go to Donna Ruhlman for her stunning photography highlighted throughout the book. Seriously, I challenge you to look at any picture in this book and not think (or say out loud), "oh, I gotta make that". In fact, one of my complaints about "Egg" is that while some recipes have multiple pictures, you can find yourself going through a stretch of several recipes that have none.
Another little complaint I have about "Egg" is that sometimes, it feels like there are little details omitted in his recipes. For example, in one of his soft-cooked egg recipes, he says that you can use the pressure cooker method, but only for 4 minutes. It was unclear if that meant mimicking the pressure cooker hard-cooked egg exactly, but only for 4 minutes -- so that's what I did and wound up with was still basically a hard-cooked egg. Maybe for soft-cooked, I was supposed to immediately cool the pressure cooker under cold water and then get the egg into ice water? I don't know, because he doesn't say.
Those minor complaints aside, "Egg" is almost worth the price just for two recipes: the above mentioned pressured cooker hard-cooked eggs (so easy to peel and the most perfect yolks ever) and double boiler scrambled eggs. I've seen Heston Blumenthal use the double boiler method but didn't try it until I got "Egg". I've never tasted such rich, moist, delicious scrambled eggs. They are well worth the additional time it takes to make them. A couple of tips on the scrambled eggs -- use truffle butter instead of regular butter (mind-blowing), and be aware that as soon as the eggs start to curdle, they progress to being done very quickly.
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