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The definitive book on schmaltz--a staple in Jewish cuisine and a "thread in a great tapestry," by one of America's most respected culinary writers.
For culinary expert Michael Ruhlman, the ultimate goal in cooking is flavor, and for certain dishes nothing introduces it half as well as schmaltz. A staple ingredient in traditional Jewish cuisine, schmaltz (or rendered chicken fat), is at risk of disappearing from use due to modern dietary trends and misperceptions about this versatile and flavor-packed ingredient.
THE BOOK OF SCHMALTZ acts as a primer on schmaltz, taking a fresh look at traditional dishes like kugel, kishke, and kreplach, and also venturing into contemporary recipes that take advantage of the versatility of this marvelous fat. Potatoes cooked with schmaltz take on a crispness and satisfying flavor that vegetable oil can't produce. Meats and starches have a depth and complexity that set them apart from the same dishes prepared with olive oil or butter.
What's more, schmaltz provides a unique link to the past that ought to be preserved. "Schmaltz is like a thread that runs through a great tapestry," says Ruhlman's neighbor Lois, whose cooking inspired his own journey into the world of schmaltz. "It's a secret handshake among Jews who love to cook and eat."
- Sales Rank: #154450 in Books
- Brand: Brand: Little, Brown and Company
- Published on: 2013-08-13
- Released on: 2013-08-13
- Original language: English
- Number of items: 1
- Dimensions: 8.88" h x .75" w x 6.88" l, 1.33 pounds
- Binding: Hardcover
- 192 pages
- Used Book in Good Condition
Review
"The foundation of the book is, of course, Ruhlman's schmaltz recipe, which is extraordinarily easy. Six steps, 90 minutes, and you're in business. Classics such as chopped liver, kreplach, and potato kugel follow, as do unconventional dishes including vichyssoise with gribenes and chives-and-chicken confit. They're now yours for the making."―--David Leite, Leite's Culinaria
"Ruhlman, who has authored cookbooks with culinary greats like Thomas Keller and Michael Symon, puts his own spin on even the most classic recipes."―--Katherine Martinelli, The Jewish Daily Forward
"If for some reason you never thought frying chicken fat could be made beautiful, you really need to check this out."―--Russ Parsons, Los Angeles Times
"Sometimes it takes and outsider to see a subject clearly. That is what Michael Ruhlman has done with schmaltz, portraying this much-maligned fat thorugh his lens and that of Lois Baron, a friendly Jewish neighbor and a traditionalist in the kitchen. Mazel tov on the results!"―--Joan Nathan, author of Jewish Cooking in America
"It's about time that schmaltz got its due. And from, no less, a great food writer who isn't Jewish. Michael Ruhlman understands, as too many Jews don't, that Yiddish cooking is a worthy cuisine, deserving of attention and respect - not to mention the carefully composed recipes and gorgeous photographs you'll find in this book."―--Arthur Schwartz, author of Jewish Home Cooking: Yiddish Recipes Revisited
About the Author
Michael Ruhlman's innovative and successful food reference books include Ratio, The Elements of Cooking, Ruhlman's Twenty, and Charcuterie. He has appeared as a judge on Iron Chef and as a featured guest on Anthony Bourdain's No Reservations. He has also co-authored books with Thomas Keller, Eric Ripert, and Michael Symon. He lives in Cleveland, Ohio, with his wife, photographer Donna Turner Ruhlman.
Most helpful customer reviews
20 of 20 people found the following review helpful.
Great idea, detailed photos, good descriptions.
By Jack Paine
Everything you want in a cookbook: detailed instructions, pictures, and even a decent background story about the book. Not only does the book have pictures, but it has before, during and after photos to guide you, which is a great help. I think this cookbook is a great idea, since every cookbook I have that has a recipe for schmaltz is brief and intimidating, so I never attempted to make schmaltz. This book explains the process in more detail than probably ever before, so any fear is removed, and the chance for success is great.
I went to the local kosher supermarket and got two pounds of chicken fat and skin. I attempted the schmaltz recipe in an all-clad 13" stainless steel skillet and ended up with what looked like beautiful schmaltz, and it smelled great, too. I haven't used it in a recipe yet, but there is a potato knish recipe in the book that I will try. I may try to use my Le Creuset cast iron skillet next time, since the stainless steel pan had a lot of browned pieces stuck to it and I was scared they would burn by the end and ruin my schmaltz, but I don't believe that happened. The author does recommend to use a non-stick pan, but I do not cook with non-stick cookware.
To sum up, if schmaltz is something you are interested to make, this is the book you should get, unless you have a grandmother that can show you.
Edit: 10/18/13- I attempted to make the potato knish recipe. I believe I followed the directions very carefully. I weighed the ingredients to be as accurate as possible. I used a pastry cloth as the author recommends to get the dough very thin. Now the problem I had was that the directions state to bake the knishes in a 400 degree farenheit oven for 15 to 20 min until golden brown. I checked them during that time frame but the knishes were not getting brown, and I let them stay in the oven longer but by the time they were golden brown they were too dry and didn't taste good. The next batch I took out at 16 minutes and they were not dry but not golden brown either. I'm not deducting any stars because perhaps this was my fault, but I wasn't satisfied with the results. I guess it's more of a heads up not to bake them too long even though they may not be brown enough, probably because the dough is so thin.
32 of 35 people found the following review helpful.
Enjoyable
By Autamme_dot_com
Schmaltz... a phrase that this reviewer has heard of, has associated with the Jewish community but never really understood what it actually is (nor was so inspired to check a dictionary). This book has changed that, if nothing else thanks to the sub-title of the book - (a) love song to a forgotten fat.
The author admits at the start that the use of schmaltz is decreasing in (North American) Jewish circles, not least due to health concerns where many attempt to cut out "unnecessary" fat from their diets. To quote the book: "My goal here is not simply to give schmaltz back, guilt-free, to the Jews, but to give it to American home cooks far and wide. Making use of chicken fat in your cooking not only enriches your cooking, it's right from an economical and ethical standpoint as well, in that you make use of something instead of throwing it out (...) Your food will taste better and you avoid waste."
The author has cleverly managed to mix religious and secular information together into a harmonious being, making this an interesting read to any foodie irrespective of their religious affiliations. Jews may "get" more out of this book in one way, but a non-Jew cannot fail but pick up much interesting "foodie information" along the way too. It is interesting to note that the author is no lifelong authority on schmaltz either, admitting that he really picked up on things after hearing a neighbour wax lyrically about it, letting his relative ignorance to come to the fore and his inquisitiveness took over. This kind of book is really a wonder to observe as you can sense the author's own interest burn through.
Understandably this book is written from a U.S.-perspective, so it won't help you much to know where to obtain ingredients for making schmaltz in Cleveland, but the general information should allow you to source items locally as probably you will need to make your own schmaltz using the given recipe. The idea of having a detailed recipe to making your own fat (and other by-products) seems an alien concept in 2013 but it is strangely compelling to read, even if you never plan to make your own.
After this it is time to get cooking and there are a plethora of Jewish recipes that use schmaltz to great effect. In many ways this would still be a great cookbook even if you substitute schmaltz for another fat, although no doubt you'll be missing out on a taste "difference" in the process. To this non-Jewish reviewer, there are many recipes that one has heard of, have never tried and now one can see what goes in to making, for example, traditional chopped liver. Some of the recipes sound alien (egg and gribenes spread) to the uninitiated yet when you look at the excellent food photography and read the descriptive text you know you just have to try them.
The recipes themselves are fairly well written, descriptive and contain all of the key information that you will need. There is no assumption that the reader is Jewish and will know exactly what they need to do. A small, but welcome, touch that acknowledges that many Gentiles might be reading.
This is probably not a book for the real kitchen novice even though they stand to gain much by reading it. Many of the processes are quite involved but the end result can be something wonderful. For the foodie, this is one of those great books that you might never have considered you would have ever needed, but once you've had it in your hands it might be hard to imagine a time without it again. This might sound hyperbole, but should you be sceptical go to a bookshop and look at this book - there's a good chance that it will come home with you.
4 of 4 people found the following review helpful.
Wonderful stuff!
By Cissa
I love Ruhlman's recipes; I have yet to have a failure using any of them, and many have jumped from an initial try into immediate high-rotation in our menus. Not only are they delicious, but I generally learn something useful every time i try a new one!
Now, I do not like to waste food. When a recipe tells me to fry bacon, for example, then drain and discard the fat, then saute the onions in olive oil... I ignore that and use the bacon fat. Etc. I love the way this book encourages one to NOT just throw away all that lovely chicken skin, but to turn it into something delicious! These days if I'm braising chicken, or poaching it- any recipe in which the skin becomes flabby- I pull it off and save it, and then make schmaltz when I have enough. (Just like I do with bones and stock, by the way!)
The chicken liver spread is to die for. The recipes have a NYC Jewish cast to them, but not exclusively, and anyway- it's a really tasty cuisine. I'm not Jewish myself, but a lot of my extended family is, so I like that I have solid recipes to cook some of their heritage foods.
Note that I am basing this review on the sadly no longer available app, though it's my understanding that the contents are similar.
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